glossary

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A Jours | Fillings. Elaborate work for small spaces in Honiton and Brussels, etc.
Source : LITMCategory : General

A jouys | Ornamental stitches, to enrich special parts of lace. Fillings.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Allover | Lace of a width to cut for yokes, etc.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Appliqué | Motifs sewn on to a net background
Source : LALMCategory : General

Applique | Lace having sprigs or leaves sewn on net.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Applique | Separate patterns applied to net.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Arraignáe | Spider, cobweb.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Baby lace | Narrow lace edgings (E. Midlands term)
Source : LALMCategory : General

Bars | Narrow plaits or threads linking together motifs in a design
Source : LALMCategory : General

Bars | Same as legs.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Bead Edge | A simple pillow lace heading.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Bead edge | Simple pillow heading.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Bedfordshire Trailers | The Trolly Bobbins. A Huntingdonshire name.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Bertha or Berthe | Lace for the shoulders or neck of a dinner or ball dress.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Bertha | A very deep cape-like collar worn with a low necked dress
Source : LALMCategory : General

Berthe | Neckwear. Many berthes are made from the Rose and Leaf design. Some people call them Berthas.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Blind-pin | A pin taken out and replaced in the same hole in the inner line of a curve.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Blonde lace | Lace made with silk in black, white or cream
Source : LALMCategory : General

Bobbin Lace | Made with bobbins on a pillow.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Bobbin | Elongated spool used as a handle to manipulate threads and also for winding the thread on
Source : LALMCategory : General

Bobbinet | Bobbin-made net.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Bobbins | Shaped sticks on which thread is wound for pillow lace-making.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Bobbin-winders | Machines for winding thread on bobbins.
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Bone Lace | Old name for pillow lace
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Bone Point | Old name for pillow lace.
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Bone Work | Old name for pillow lace
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Border Lace | Narrow lace.
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Borders | Edging narrower than flounces, usually for gathering
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Boute de Neige | An old net of little cobwebs.
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Bride's écaillés | Bar net.
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Bride's boucleés | Button-holed bars.
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Bride's Lace | Guipure.
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Bride's nez | Bar net.
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Bride's ornées | Bars with picots.
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Bride's Picot | Bars with loops.
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Brides picotees | Bars ornamented with picots (bobbin lace)
Source : LALMCategory : General

Brides | Same as legs.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Brides | See bars
Source : LALMCategory : General

Brussels Point | A strong fine and beautiful net.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Bud | Bucks name for almost any ornament in the pattern.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Buds | Little rings.
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Buttonhole stitch | Main stitch in needlepoint lace.
Source : LALMCategory : General

Button-hole stitch | The principal stitch in needle lace.
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Candle block, Candle stool | Tall stool for holding candles and flashes for lighting purposes
Source : LALMCategory : General

Cartisane | Parchment or vellum, with pattern in silk or metal.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Chain lace | Tambour lace
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Chain Lace | Tambour.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Chain stitch | Crochet stitch. In Tambour worked on net.
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Checked Paper | Paper ruled in small squares. {Graph or Squared paper}
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Chinese Tape | A tape made in China, a kind of bobbins.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Close a pin | To make a stitch after setting a pin. In bobbin lace.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Close stitch (bobbin lace) | Close work. Cloth stitch, Clothwork, Linen stitch, Whole stitch.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Close Stitch | Cloth, Linen and Whole stitch.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Close-work | Same as whole stitch.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Cloth stitch | Complete stitch in bobbin lace.
Source : LALMCategory : General

Cloth stitch | Two threads woven through two others.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Cloth work | Linen-like weaving in bobbin lace.
Source : LALMCategory : General

Clothwork | A tissue-like fine linen, made by weaving threads. The usual materials of flower, etc., in pillow lace.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Clothwork | Same as whole stitch.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Cluny | An offshoot of Maltese.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Cord bobbins | Bobbins left at the side, which make the cord of the open edge.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Cordonnet, or Raised Work | The thick thread or cord with which the pattern is sometimes outlined, as in Brussels and Honiton Laces. It is used to give boldness and relief. It must not be confused with
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Cordonnet | A raised border to some Venetian Point. The Belgian outlining thread for pillow lace: thick, made of cotton.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Cordonnet | Heavy thread for outlining patterns
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Corona | " Raised work," which is made at the same time as the underlying flower or pattern.
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Couple Edge | Cord bobbins. Pair left at edge in Honiton,etc.
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Couronnes | In Raised Venetian. Ornaments to the bordering Cordonnet.
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Covering-cloths | Cloths for covering the pillow.
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Coxcombs | Bars. Old English.
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Cucumber | A Devon filling.
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Cutting off | Tying and cutting off bobbins.
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Cutwork | Ancient work from which Needle Point developed.
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Cutwork | Early lace made by cutting away the material and filling in with embroidery
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Cutworks | Devon basketwork fillings.
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Darned net | Embroidery on machine-madelace or filet lace
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Darning stitch | Stitch in Limerick.
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Darning | Limerick stitches.
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Doppel schlag | Two half-stitches.
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Dots | Spots sprinkled on Lille ground.
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Double ground | Valenciennes. Made with eight bobbins.
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Double Ground | Valenciennes. Plaited.
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Down | Full length of a parchment pattern (about 35 cm, 14 in.)
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Drawnwork | Needlework on linen with drawn threads.
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Dressed pillow | Pattern and covers arranged on a lace pillow.
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Droschel | Flemish word for special bobbin made ground in Brussels and Point d'Angleterre lace
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Duchesse | Nineteenth century guipure lace (Belgian)
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Dykeside | See Head-side.
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Eches | Cotton or linen tabs sewn on to the ends of a parchment pattern
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Engrêlure | Footing for sewing lace to other material.
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Entoilage, Point | Much used in Needle Point.
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Escurial | Footing (Mrs Pallisser).
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Esprit Point | Leaf stitch, basket stitch.
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Eyelet hole | A small hole with overcast margin.
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Fancy hole | Devon name for pinhole-bordered hole in clothwork.
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Fedora | Point Applique.
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Festonnes Picot | Button-holed loops.
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Feuille Bar | Worked in Reprise (basketwork).
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Fil de Crin | Cordonnet in pillow lace.
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Fil deTrace | Outlining thread or cord in needle lace.
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Filet brodé | Embroidered net.
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Filet Lace | also known as Filet Brode, Filet Guipure, Guipure d' Art, is a revival of the Lacis or Darned Netting of the Middle Ages. Its patterns are found in Vinciola's book, published in 1588.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Filet lace | Darned patterns on square mesh Fillings Fancy stitches used in the centre of enclosed spaces.
Source : LALMCategory : General

Filet Lace | Made with square meshed net.
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Fillings | Ornamental work to enrich certain parts of lace.
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Flash cushion | Straw cushion for supporting flasks
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Flask, flash | Glass globes for magnifying light
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Flax | Linen thread.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Fleurs volants | In Raised. Venetian. Ornaments the cordonnet of the body of the pattern.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Flounce | Wide lace made in a continuous strip
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Fond Chant | Point de Paris.
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Fond | Ground. Net.
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Footing | Narrow edge which is sewn on to material.
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Footing | The straight lower edge of lace.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Foot-side | The inner edge of a piece of lace, as opposed to the Head-side. The Foot-side is generally straight, as it is used to sew the lace on to the material it is to decorate.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Footside | The straight lower edge of lace.
Source : LITMCategory : General

French Ground | Point de Paris. A six-point star net.
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French Ground | point de Paris.
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French Ground | Same as Kat Stitch.
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Front | The part of the pillow facing the worker.
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Gaining on a pin | Changing the bobbins which have worked across (in Honiton lace), without putting in a pin.
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Gaining on a pin | To exchange weavers without making an edge.
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Ganz schlag | Whole stitch.
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Genoa Point | Basket stitch over two or four threads.
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Gimp | In the Midlands, thick linen thread for outlining the pattern.
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Gingles | Bands of pewter, etc., round bobbins
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Gingles | Beads on wire to weight and ornament bobbins. Midlands.
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Gingles | The loose pewter rings which surround the Trolly bobbin (Bucks). It is a mistake to give this name to the spangles.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Gold Lace | Made with gold thread.
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Grille | Half-stitch, an open, net-like cloth.
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Groppo | A knot or tie.
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Groppo | Knot, tie (Italian)
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Ground | Mesh or bars which join and support the pattern.
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Ground | Net or bars, by which the pattern is held in place.
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Guimpe | Raised work in linen stitch. Devon.
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Guipure lace | Originally a lace made with narrow strips of parchment whipped over with gold or silver thread. Modern meaning is a bold lace linked together with bars and no mesh.
Source : LALMCategory : General

Guipure Tape | Russian style, geometrical design.
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Guipure | (1) Old meaning of the term: A lace of which the pattern consisted of a strip of thin parchment or a "gross black thread covered or whipped about with silk" Also called Parchment Lace. When t
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Guipure | (2) Modern meaning of the term: A lace without any net ground, the pattern being held together by legs as English-made Maltese.
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Guipure | Lace with bar or open, ground such as Venetian, Bruges, Maltese.
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Gymp | Gimp.
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Hair-pin Stitch | A Bucks name. Same as Kat Stitch.
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Hair-pin stitch | Point de Paris. Kat stitch.
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Half stitch | An openwork stitch in bobbin lace
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Half-down | Strips of pattern for Bucks lace.
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Half-stitch | An openwork stitch like net.
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Half-Stitch | The loose work that occurs more frequently in Maltese and Torchon.
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Hanging on | Arranging bobbins on pins to commence lace.
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Head, headside | Fancy edge of lace.
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Heading | The upper edge of border laces.
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Head-side | The outer edge of a piece of lace. It is generally scalloped or vandyked (when it is called the Dykeside). Another name is Turnside.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Head-side | The upper edge of border laces
Source : LITMCategory : General

Hole, Eyelet | A small hole overcast round its margin.
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Horse | A stand for a lace pillow.
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Hutch | A basket for holding spare flasks
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Insertion | A lace with straight heading.
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Insertion | Lace with straight edges on both sides, both edges being attached to material
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Kante | Edge.
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Kat Stitch | Also called Wire Ground, French Ground, Six-Pointed Star Ground, and in Bucks Hair-Pin Stitch. It takes eight bobbins to a pin instead of four like other stitches.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Kat stitch | Katten Kattern, from Katherine of Aragon. Point de Paris.
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Katten stitch | Katten Kattern, from Katherine of Aragon. Point de Paris.
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Kattern stich | Katten Kattern, from Katherine of Aragon. Point de Paris.
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Klöppel Kissen | Lace pillow.
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Lacetta | Sheets of lace-like material taken from the lacebark tree of Jamaica.
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Lacis | See Filet lace
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Lappet | Lace with two headings and shaped ends.
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Lappets | Long, narrow decorative pieces hanging from the sides of a head-dress. Made in pairs
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Lead works | Leaves in reprise (basketwork).
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Leads | Sheets of lead on which parchments were pricked
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Leadworks | (dots, plaits, points d' esprit) The dots with which the Lille Ground is sometimes sprinkled. The French term is mouche (a fly).
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Leaf stitch | Basketwork used largely in Maltese.
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Leaf-stitch pin | One with head bent round to support a thread.
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Legs | " Straps " or bars.
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Legs | The connections between the various parts of a lace design. Also called straps, bars, and brides (literally, bridges).
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Linen stitch | Cloth or whole stitch. Four threads woven together.
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Looping the bobbin | Arranging the thread to stay at one length.
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Lozenge | A " motif " in Tenerife lace.
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Macklin | Mechlin.
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Maglia | Mesh.
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Mat, matt | Clothwork of flowers, etc.
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Matt | The closework of flowers and ornaments.
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Medallion | A " motif " in Teneriffe lace.
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Medici collars | Point de Venise supported by metal bars.
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Merletti a piombino | Bobbin lace.
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Merletto | Lace.
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Mezzo Punto | Tape lace with Needle Point bars.
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Mitre | A scallop.
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Modeno | Laces with square mesh.
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Modes | Fillings.
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Motif | Sprig or spray made separately in some laces, and joined together afterwards
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Motif | Sprig. A detachable piece of the pattern in Honiton, Brussels, etc.
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Mouches | Spots worked on net.
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Moucheté Réseau | Net with spots in Point Esprit.
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Mushroom pillow | A rather flat round pillow for Honiton, Bruges, etc.
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Needle Bar | Stitched or twisted strand to attach parts to each other.
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Needle Point | A needle lace made chiefly of button-hole stitches.
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Needle-pin | A needle set in a handle.
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Needlepoint | Lace made with a needle and built up with buttonhole stitches
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Net | A mesh ground to unite parts of lace.
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Noue, Point de | Button-hole stitch.
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Oeil de perdrix | Also partridge eye.Ornamental ground of a solid hexagon inside a skeleton hexagon
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Œil de Perdrix | Partridge eye, an ornamental ground in Mechlin.
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Open Lace | Lace with no ground.
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Opus araneum | Spider-work. Darned netting.
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Opus filatorium | Thread-work. Darned netting.
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Passement | Early name for lace
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Passement | Lace dating about 1600.
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Passementiers | A Corporation with a monopoly for making passement,1663.
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Passive | A bobbin carrying a warp thread.
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Pearl Edge | Edge with picots.
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Pearl Stitch | Picot.
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Pearl, purl | Picot, tiny loop on bars or edges
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Pearl | Picot. Loop.
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Pearling or Pearlin' | Scotch lace.
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Pearl-pin Bar | Stem stitch with picots.
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Pelerine | (French, pelerin, a pilgrim.) Originally the cape (which had the addition of a hood) worn by pilgrims to the Holy Land. Pelerines worn by English ladies were often oramented with lace.
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Pelisse | (Latin, pellis, a skin.) An overdress for outdoor wear. The nobles of the court of Edward the Confessor wore pelisses. In the 19th century children's pelisses were often laced.
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Pereline | A very deep collar fashionable in the nineteenth century
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Perl edge | Machine-made edge of loops, to sew on Limerick or Renaissance.
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Perl pin | Devon name for picot. bars: Bars with picots.
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Picot | A loop. Also a steel instrument for arranging the set of flowers, etc., in Point Alencon.
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Picots festonnés bar | Button-holed, with button-holed picots.
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Picots festonnés doubles Bar | Button-holed, with the picots on both sides.
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Picots | A French name for purls or turnPins.
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Pillow Bar | Woven or twisted strand to attach parts to each other.
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Pillow horse, Pillow maid | Stand for supporting lace pillow
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Pillow Lace | Lace made on the pillow by twisting and plaiting threads. The French term is dentelle au fuseau.
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Pillow Lace | Lace worked on a pillow with bobbins.
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Pillow lace | Old name for bobbin lace
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Pillow | A cushion on which bobbin lace is made.
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Pin-work | Dutch name for lace.
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Piombino | A small lead bobbin.
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Piquéknots | Stitches in drawn threadwork.
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Plain hole | Devon name for unbordered hole made in clothwork.
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Plain-work | Clothwork, whole stitch.
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Plain-work | Same as whole stitch.
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Plastron | (French, a breast-plate.) A trimming for the front of a dress of a different material 'from the dress itself.
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Ply | A single untwisted thread.
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Point Coupé | Cutwork. The origin of Needle Point.
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Point de Neige | Rose Point.
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Point de Paris | A narrow bobbin lace (made in Normandy and near Paris) which was much worn in the 17th century. It was also called Point des champs, because it was made in the country, and Point doubl
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Point Ground | Also called Point de Lille, Lille Ground, Point Simple, Fond Clair, Fond Simple (as opposed to Point de Paris, which is Point Double or Fond Double). The word Fond (Fr.) means ground.
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Point Lace | Literally, lace made with the point of a needle. Point d' Angleterre and Bucks Point are misnomers, as they are made with bobbins. Fixed, however, as they are by time, these names cannot b
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Point lace | Needlepoint lace but also used for especially fine quality bobbin lace
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Point | A stitch. A kind of lace using a certain stitch.
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Points d' esprit | See Leadworks.
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Powdered | Dotted with small spots or sprigs.
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Pricker | Needle-pin. Instrument to make holes in patterns.
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Pricker | The short instrument used for making in the parchment the holes that are to receive the pins.
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Prickings | Patterns.
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Punti | Stitches.
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Punto in aria | Italian for early needle lace with no linen foundation (literally meaning stitches in the air)
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Punto in Aria | Stitches in the air. Early needle lace, with no linen foundation.
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Punto tirato | Drawn threadwork.
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Punto | Stitch.
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Purl | Picot. Loop.
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Purling | Stitch for uniting sprigs in Honiton lace
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Purlings | Devon for bars with picots.
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Purls, or Pearls | Tiny loops on the head-side of lace. Also called picots.
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Putting back | In Bucks, or Beds, lace, removing lace and pins from the end of a pattern to its commencement.
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Quill | Bobbin with a long neck for winding on gimp before winding it on to a trolly bobbin.
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Quills | Bobbins with long necks on which the gimp is first wound.
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Réseau avec bobine | bobbin-made net.
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Réseau moucheté | Net with Point Esprit spots.
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Réseau Rosacé | Special net in Argentella lace.
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Réseau Vraie | Needle or bobbin net. Not machine.
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Réseau | Ground (French).
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Réseau | Net work.
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Réseau | Net.
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Raccroc | Fine joining stitch used for joining droschel ground invisibly
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Racroc Point | A stitch to join net grounds.
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Racroc | A stitch for joining net grounds.
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Raised work | An ornamental bar on clothwork in Honiton and Brussels, increasing its value.
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Raxie | Réseau
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Real Lace | Not machine-made nor imitating that of other sources.
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Reseuil | Réseau.
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Resting bobbins | The cord-making pair left at the side.
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Resting weavers | The cord-making pair left at the side.
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Rolled work | A raised work with twisted threads.
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Rounds | Shaped parts for babies bonnets, caps, etc.
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Rucroe Point | A stitch of Calvados, Ireland, used to join flowers and scrolls.
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Rucroe | A stitch of Calvados, Ireland, used to join flowers and scrolls.
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Runners | Workers, weavers. The pair of bobbins which go back and forth across clothwork in pillow lace.
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Sam Cloth | Sampler.
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Seaming Lace | Insertion for joining lace.
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Semés | Powdering of spots, sprigs, etc.
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Setting in | Beginning a pattern in bobbin lace
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Setting up | Moving up the lace after a complete down has been worked
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Sewing | Uniting two parts of lace with a loop of thread.
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Shiny thread | Devon name for linen thread used for outlining. Gimp.
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Skip | Small skein. Devon.
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Slip | Small skein. Bucks.
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Snatch-pin Bar | With simple pinholes.
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Snatch-pin bars | Bars with simple pinholes. Devon.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Spangles | Bunches of coloured beads hung to bobbins by means of brass wire in order to increase their weight.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Spangles | Glass beads used to weight bobbins Tallies Dots.
Source : LALMCategory : General

Sprig | A complete flower or ornament in Honiton, Brussels, etc.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Square Net Point | Lacis, Point Conté. Darned netting.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Stem Stitch | A half- and a whole-stitch.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Sticks | Bobbins.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Stitch | In pillow lace, two threads woven through two others.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Straps | Same as legs.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Taking a Sewing | Uniting two parts of lace with a loop of thread.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Tallies | Bucks name for Plaits.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Tallies | Sticks, on which notches were cut to keep accounts.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Tambour | Lace made by chain stitches on net.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Tap | A section of a leaf.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Tape Guipure | See Guipure.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Tatting | A reproduction of the Ragusa Gimp Laces and Knotted Laces of the 16th century, made with threads and a shuttle. It is sometimes, on account of its lace-like appearance, called Tatted Lace, bu
Source : RLPCategory : General

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Source : Category :

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Source : Category :

Tenstick | Devon name for guimpe, or raised work.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Thread Rings | Used in Renaissance Point.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Tie | Bar.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Toilé | Same as whole stitch.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Toilé | The pattern or solid cloth work parts of bobbin or needlepoint lace
Source : LALMCategory : General

Toile | The close work of flowers, etc.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Tombolo | Lace pillow.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Torchon | (French, a dish-cloth.) Lace of loose texture and geometrical design.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Tractor | A wigmaker's needle for " sewings."
Source : LITMCategory : General

Tresse Point | Lace made of human hair.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Trimming | Neither an edging nor insertion.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Trina | Lace.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Trine a fuselli | Bobbin-made lace.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Trine ad ago | Needle lace.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Trolle Kant | Border lace
Source : LITMCategory : General

Trolly bobbin | Buckinghamshire name for bobbin carrying gimp
Source : LALMCategory : General

Trolly Lace | (1) Bucks - Lace in which the pattern is outlined with gimp.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Trolly Lace | (2) Devon - A Lace made of coarse thread, and worked straight on-round and round the pillow.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Trolly Lace | Border lace.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Trolly lace | Buckinghamshire name for lace outlined with gimp or Devonshire lace made with a coarse thread and worked continuously round and round the pillow
Source : LALMCategory : General

Trolly | Bucks name for bobbin to which the gimp is transferred from the quill.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Trou-trou | A pattern with perforations for threading ribbons.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Turn Pins | Loops on bars of Maltese lace.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Turn side | Head side.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Turn | Bobbin winder.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Turning stitch | A half- and a whole-stitch.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Turning Stitch | A half- and a whole-stitch
Source : LITMCategory : General

Turning the Pillow | Twisting it back to front.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Turnpins | Tiny loops on the legs of Maltese and other laces.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Turnside | Same as Head-side.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Tying off or out | Fastening and cutting off bobbins.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Vrai Réseau | Real net. Hand-made. Not machine.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Warp | A thread running lengthwise in a tape, etc.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Weaver | A thread working through warps.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Wheatears, Wheat grains | Ornaments of closely worked basket stitch as seen in Maltese, Beds-Maltese and Genoese laces
Source : LALMCategory : General

Whole Stitch | Cloth, Linen and Close stitch.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Whole Stitch | The close-work, cloth-work, or Plain work. The meshes are square. The French name is toite.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Whole stitch | Two threads worked through two others. Cloth or Linen stitch.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Wigmaker's Needle | A tractor for making " sewings," being a fine hook on a curved wire.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Winkie Pin | Edge with no cord bobbins.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Winkie pin | From the Dutch, Wincken, to be quick. Edge without cord bobbins.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Wire ground | Point de Paris.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Wire Ground | point de Paris
Source : LITMCategory : General

Wire Ground | Same as Kat Stitch.
Source : RLPCategory : General

Woof | A thread running across a tape, etc.
Source : LITMCategory : General

Worker | A weaver. A bobbin working through warps.
Source : LITMCategory : General

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